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Hyperpigmentation is a common condition that can be difficult to treat and impact your quality of life. Well formulated cosmeceutical products offer effective solutions without the need for expensive laser treatments or prescription drugs.
Here are 5 of the most commonly used and effective ingredients used in cosmeceutical skincare for hyperpigmentation.
Kojic Acid
A natural acid derived from rice that inhibits tyrosinase genesis, provides antioxidant effects, and has anti-ageing properties. Kojic acid interrupts the melanogenesis process by capturing copper ions that would normally be used by tyrosinase. Kojic Acid been shown to be effective in improving the appearance of melasma, photodamage, and hyperpigmented scars, but is difficult to stabilise.
Vitamin C
There are a few forms of vitamin C that are used in cosmeceuticals, such as; ascorbyl-6-palmitate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, with L-ascorbic acid being the pure and most researched form. Vitamin C also interrupts melanogenesis by interacting with copper ions. Across a variety of different methods such as, microneedling, iontophoresis, and topically, vitamin C has proven to be highly effective. It can also be combined with other ingredients, like retinol, and maintain its efficacy.
Arbutin
Natural arbutin is found in bearberry, cranberry, and blueberry plant leaves (known as beta-arbutin), and can also be synthesised in a lab (known as alpha-arbutin). Arbutin is a derivative or hydroquinone and is an effective tyrosinase inhibitor.
Retinoids
Vitamin A derivatives have a variety of functions that support the reduction of hyperpigmentation. Some key mechanisms include matrix metalloproteinase activation is inhibited, while the extracellular matrix is regenerated. As retinoids have been studied since the 1960’s as a skincare ingredient, we have been able to utilise these forms of vitamin A to provide a wide variety of benefits including; even skin tone, stimulates collagen production, and skin brightening.
Licorice Extract
Often obtained from the seed or root of the Licorice plant, this extract has strong antioxidant properties and has been shown to have an effective anti-inflammatory effect. Licorice extract contains polyphenol compounds called flavonoids that partially inhibit melanogenesis through tyrosinase inhibition.
There are a wide variety of active ingredients used in the treatment of hyperpigmentation in skincare today. Innovative formulations, techniques, and ingredients are being developed all the time to further our ability to target dark spots with topical cosmeceutical products.